Building and Maintaining a Compost Pile
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Composting works best with a mixture of coarse and fine materials, layered together in 6 to 8 inch layers. Lay down a bottom layer of twigs, cornstalks, hay, wood chips, or other course material. Follow with a layer of high nitrogen material such as grass clippings or manure. You can add a layer of soil and then more rough material, more clippings, and so on. Keep layering until the enclosure is full or the pile is 4 to 5 feet high or a minimum of 6 to 7 layers. Do not pack materials too tightly or make the pile too large. Wet down each layer to the point of run-off. To help speed up nature’s process of decomposition in your composter, you can use compost accelerator. The accelerator is sprinkled on dry and used when wetting layers of your pile down. Compost accelerator adds nitrogen bacteria and enzymes to your pile therefore hastening your composting naturally. You’ll know your compost is ready to use when it turns a dark color and exudes a rich, earthy smell. A well-managed pile will produce usable compost in 4 to 8 weeks, depending on materials used.
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Containment types
Rich Compost
- Compost bin
- Flexible wire panels
- Bricks or cement blocks
- Wood frames
- Plastic styled bins
- “In a bag” composter
- Tumbler bins
Choosing the site for your composter
Select a shaded spot with good drainage; a pile exposed to full sun will dry out too fast. Make sure that it is flat enough so the nutrients that accumulate will not wash away, and far enough from trees so their roots will not siphon away the pile’s yield.
Choosing the shape
Although compost piles don’t require enclosures, they’re more practical, neater, and prevent material from blowing away. The type of enclosure you select is a matter of personal preference.
Aerate the Pile
Turn the pile when initial heating subsides with a pitchfork or aeration tool and then after every heat-up cycle. Move the fully composted material out of the hot center of the pile and replace it with the partially composted material on the sides.
Using the Finished Product — Gardener's Gold!
Use it to improve garden soil by adding a 3 inch layer of humus, digging it to a depth of 6 inches with a spading fork or roto tiller. Compost also makes a great mulch over bulb gardens. Tip: don’t bury the compost, but hoe it in slightly. Mix compost with equal parts of sand and loam to start seeds indoors in a cold frame.
Troubleshooting Compost Bins
When compost piles aren’t working properly, you’ll usually notice one or more of the characteristics listed below. Most of the problems can be corrected by taking the recommended steps.
Pile is too dry
Piles tend to dry out during hot, sunny weather. Without adequate moisture, microorganisms cease to function and decomposition stops. Monitor the pile carefully to assure moisture is the consistency of a squeezed-out sponge.
Pile is too wet
Over-watering tends to compact the pile. When air cannot penetrate, it encourages anaerobic bacterial activity that results in fermentation and unpleasant odors. Turn the pile so it aerates properly and the materials dry to the consistency of a squeezed-out sponge.
Pile Has an Unpleasant Odor
When the pile is over-watered or packed too tightly, oxygen can’t penetrate and aerobic microbes can’t function. Anaerobic microorganisms take over and cause unpleasant odors. To correct the problem, add some coarse materials and turn the pile over so it aerates properly and loses the extra moisture.
Pile is Inactive
Microorganisms carry out the job of decomposing organic material in a compost pile. You need a broad spectrum of these microorganisms to activate the pile and get a rapid breakdown of organic material. If the proper ones are not present, decomposition will be slow and disappointing. To avoid this, add compost accelerator.
If you have any questions about starting or maintaining your compost pile, or questions about using your compost, please don’t hesitate to ask us!