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BROADLEAFED EVERGREENS: COMMON PLANT PROBLEMS
*** VERY TYPICAL to suffer first year problems. The trick is to get thru this first winter, the hardest winter for plants to get acclimated.
Rushing to replace a plant with winter dieback likely insures you will be doing the same thing next year. By being patient and waiting for your
plant to build stronger roots, you will likely have a much stronger and more relaible plant for years to come!
REMEDY: Prune/Remove dead branches & plant will likely come back to 100%. In TIME! Usually by early June.
First, Check wood branches for green by cutting (scraping the surface of the bark branch). Click PHOTO to see example.
Most often the wood branches are green EVEN WHEN the leaves are yellow, orange or brown. This simpy means the old leaves are dead only, not the PLANT.
In order to make room for new leaves, you can speed up the process by "RAKING THE DEAD LEAVES (STRIP LEAVES FROM PLANT) ".
In a matter of weeks, and with prolonged hot weather, you will see continual improvement until your plant returns to normal. Early June.
| PLANT NAME | TIME OF SEASON USUALLY OCCURS | PLANT CONDITION (How plant looks) | Likely Cause of Problem |
| Andromeda (Click For Photos) | MARCH | DIEBACK ON TOPS | TOO WET/DRY OR COLD WINTER |
| Aucuba (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | BLACK TIPS | TOO WET OR COLD WINTER. NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Boxwood: English Boxwood (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | YELLOW INSIDE | DRIED OUT |
| Holly : Small leaf (Crenata varieties) (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | LEAVES DRY AND BROWN/YELLOW BURNED | DRIED OUT |
| Holly: Inkberry Holly (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | LEAVES DRY AND BROWN/YELLOW BURNED | DRIED OUT, WIND BURN. NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Holly: Bigger Leaf (Nellie Stevens, Blue Girl, Mery Berry, San Jose, etc) (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | LEAVES DRY AND BROWN/YELLOW BURNED | DRIED OUT, WIND BURN. NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Laurel : Cherry Laurel (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | LEAVES DRY AND BROWN/YELLOW BURNED | DRIED OUT, WIND BURN. NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Laurel : Mountain Laurel (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | LEAVES DRY AND BROWN/YELLOW BURNED | DRIED OUT, WIND BURN. NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Laurel : Skip Laurel (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | LEAVES DRY AND BROWN/YELLOW BURNED | DRIED OUT, WIND BURN. NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Leucothoe (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | LEAVES DRY AND BROWN/YELLOW BURNED | DRIED OUT, WIND BURN. NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Rhododendron (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | LEAVES DRY AND BROWN/YELLOW BURNED | DRIED OUT, WIND BURN. NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
NEEDLE EVERGREENS TREES AND SHRUBS) : COMMON PLANT PROBLEMS
*** Less typical to suffer first year problems. Again, the trick is to get thru this first winter, the hardest winter for plants to get acclimated.
Rushing to replace a plant with winter dieback likely insures you will be doing the same thing next year. By being patient and waiting for your plant to build stronger roots, you will likely have a much stronger and more relaible plant for years to come!
REMEDY: Prune/Remove dead branches & plant will likely come back to 100%. In TIME! Usually by early June. First, Check wood branches for green by cutting (scraping the surface of the bark branch). Click PHOTO to see example. Most often needle evergreens just need heat! Sometimes is is also necessary to shake out some of the inner needles (last years growth, or also called secondary growth) to make room for new growth, or primary growth for the upcoming season. In a matter of weeks, and with prolonged hot weather, you will see continual improvement until your plant returns to normal. Early to mid June.
| PLANT NAME | TIME OF SEASON USUALLY OCCURS | PLANT CONDITION (How plant looks) | Likely Cause of Problem |
| Arborvitae (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | INNER BRANCHES ORANGE | NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Leyland Cypress (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | INNER BRANCHES ORANGE | NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Spruce: Dwarf Alberta Spruce (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | INNER BRANCHES ORANGE | NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Clethra (Click For Photos) | MARCH/APRIL | TOP 1/3 PLANT DEAD | WINTER COLD NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Mimosa Tree (Click For Photos) *****WILL NOT CONSIDER FOR REPLACEMENT UNTIL MID JUNE | MAY | NOT PUSHING OUT ALL LEAVES | NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Honey Locust (Click For Photos) | MAY | NOT PUSHING OUT ALL LEAVES | NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Hornbeams (Click For Photos) | MAY | NOT PUSHING OUT ALL LEAVES | NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Japanese Maple (Click For Photos) | SUMMER | DROPPING LEAVES | OVERWATERING |
| Oak Trees (Click For Photos) *****WILL NOT CONSIDER FOR REPLACEMENT UNTIL MID JUNE | MAY | NOT PUSHING OUT ALL LEAVES | NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Redbuds (Click For Photos) *****WILL NOT CONSIDER FOR REPLACEMENT UNTIL MID JUNE | MAY | NOT PUSHING OUT ALL LEAVES | NOT ENOUGH PROLONGED HOT WEATHER |
| Grasses (Click For Photos) | APRIL/MAY | BROWN GRASS | WINTER COLD |
PLANTS THAT NEED "A LITTLE MORE TIME"
*The Following Plants will NOT be considered for replacement until the END OF JUNE
TREES
SHRUBS
- Skip Laurel
- Cherry Laurel
- Holly
*These plants require consistent warm weather to fully come back to life, especially after the first year of planting.
PLANTS THAT NEED "A LITTLE EXTRA CARE"
*The Following Plants will LIKELY require a light prune of the top of the plant:
- Hypericum (St. Johns Wort): Cut back all old growth that is dead. New growth will come from base of the plant and replace the old dead growth
- Clethra: Cut back the top 1/3 of plant that is dead. New growth will come from the end tips of the plant and replace this old dead growth.
- Ornamental Grasses: Cut back in early March to 6" height. New growth will come from base of the plant and replace the old dead growth.
"DEER DAMAGE". What to expect from a trunk that is rubbed by a deer.
When the Cambium layer (skin of the tree trunk) is rubbed away from the tree, the tree will often die on the exact side of the tree rub. When the tree is deer rubbed 360 degrees around the trunk, trees are likely to die. Early on, when noticed, these young tree trunks must be protected with Tree Guard, Rutgers sells.
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