What to do with a Capricious Crape Myrtle

Posted on October 20, 2014 by RutgersLN

Stressful weather conditions are inevitable factors that can harm your trees and shrubs. If you’re lucky, mother nature may grant your plant a second chance. Even with significant seasonal damage, you may be able to revive what’s left if there are signs of new growth. For example, take a look at the crape myrtle ‘bush’ in the foreground. Winter damage killed off the central trunk, but not the entire tree. New shoots came up from the bottom, yielding a more bush-like form, which still produced a multitude of gorgeous flowers in the summertime. This new form can be kept, or you may be able to achieve its former upright appearance. As new “suckers” begin to grow from below, you can select the 3-4 that look the strongest and let them grow, pruning the others away. To encourage the “suckers” to develop nice and straight, twine can be used to help brace the new young trunks upwards.

To learn more about how to revive a stressed crape myrtle, stop by our nursery — our knowledgeable staff is happy to help!

Sourwood Tree

Posted on September 19, 2014 by RutgersLN

Believe it or not, this showy flowering tree is native to our area, offering eye-catching color along with sweet, fragrant summertime blossoms. The Sourwood tree prefers acidic, rich, well-drained soil, and can reach heights of 20-40.’ As it’s typically an understory tree, it can handle part sun as well as full, making it quite adaptable to landscape location. The Sourwood tree gets its name because its leaves have a sour taste — which contradicts its sweet shades of peachy orange and red as it comes into fall color (another sweet fact is that bees love its blossoms, and sourwood honey is a delicious local treat).

This color is truly boldness to behold — stop in for a visit!

Beating the Beetles

Posted on July 3, 2014 by RutgersLN

Photo by: David Cappaert
bugwood.org

The Japanese beetles have descended with a vengeance, helping themselves to your backyard buffet. But you don’t have to let them destroy your beautiful shrubs and prize rosebushes! By being aware of their presence and being proactive, you can keep your garden looking great.

Though they are truly beautiful insects with shiny metallic shells ranging from hues of green, gold, and blue, they can do a number on certain types of plants.

Japanese beetle damage can be identified by skeletal-looking leaves, and it’s not uncommon to catch them in the act of snacking. Japanese beetles absolutely love roses (they nestle in the center of their blooms, eating them from the inside out!), so if you have them in your garden, they’ll tend to go for those first. Other plants they tend to go for are lindens, fruit trees, and maples.

Though there are several Pyrethrin-based insecticides on the market, there are also less toxic ways to control them such as good old-fashioned hand-picking (pick beetles off plants in the morning when they are less active and place them in a bucket of soapy water). Some gardeners have cited success by incorporating beneficial Tiphia Wasps into their garden, which keep beetle larvae at bay. Additionally, natural Neem Oil has shown to be effective when sprayed on plants as a preventative. Diatomaceous earth, which is a single-celled algae that harms insects exoskeletons, can also be applied around selected plants to destroy beetle larvae.

There are plants Japanese beetles dislike like garlic, rue, catnip, chives, leeks, onions, marigolds, and larkspur. Planting these in among plants they like can help lessen damage by deterring their presence.

Lastly, be wary of Japanese beetle traps – the bait that’s used can actually attract beetles to your yard, giving you a bigger problem than you bargained for.

By being proactive, you can happily say bon voyage to these little buggers!

Why Plant in Fall?

Posted on August 21, 2013 by RutgersLN

Have you heard the phrase “Fall is for Planting”? You may wonder why that is the case! While most plants in our area of the Mid-Atlantic can be very successfully planted in the spring, summer or fall, autumn truly is the best time. The cooler temperatures mean less heat stress and less watering needs for new plantings. In fall, the ground retains its heat much longer than the air, allowing roots to grow and become established until the ground actually freezes. This is why seeding grass in the fall is recommended. Planting in fall also allows you to get a jump on the spring season, as you will be rewarded with a larger tree, shrub or perennial!

Stars of Summer

Posted on July 11, 2013 by RutgersLN

Summer’s heat is much more bearable thanks to these garden gems! Here are some of our favorite summer blooming perennials:

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea Purpurea, Powow Wildberry)

Echinacea loves full sun and this variety will bloom all season, reaching a height of 20-24 inches. Deadheading not required!

Anise Hyssop (Agastache, Blue Fortune)

Bees love this taller perennial. Growing 2-4 feet, Agastache will nicely anchor the back of a perennial border. It’s flowers are edible and the plant is deer resistant!

Black Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia, Tiger Eye Gold)

This bold Rudbeckia for sun or part shade is filled with lovely brown centered blooms. It stands 16 – 24” high and is resistant to powdery mildew.

Hummingbird Gardens

Posted on June 20, 2013 by RutgersLN

Their shining iridescent colors and ‘humming of wings’ make hummingbirds among the most beautiful and fascinating birds to attract. The Ruby-throated Hummingbird is the only species of hummingbird found in northern New Jersey. Male Ruby-throated Hummingbirds have a brilliant, metallic-red throat that can appear black in the shade, while females have a white throat. Both have bright iridescent green backs and wings.

Habitat

The Ruby-Throated Hummingbird is the only Hummingbird that breeds in the eastern US. Hummingbirds migrate seasonally and are attracted to woodland edges and openings near streams where their favorite nectar producing plants grow. The nectar provides the necessary energy for the Hummingbird’s rapid flight movement – a Hummingbird may beat its wings up to 75 times per second.

Feeding

Although Hummingbirds feed from nectar-bearing flowers of all colors, they are mainly attracted to bright red, pink, and orange tubular flowers. The most important thing you can do to attract these birds to your garden is to plant flowering annuals, perennials, shrubs & trees.

Also, these birds will eagerly come to special feeders that are stocked with sugar water. There are several models of Hummingbird feeders available to suit your budget and taste. It’s recommended to fill the feeders daily, with fresh “nectar solution”. Every four to five days clean the feeder thoroughly with hot water and a little vinegar to prevent mold establishment. Scrub the feeder with a bottle brush and rinse thoroughly before refilling.

Recommended Plants:

The following garden plants provide color and nectar that can help attract Hummingbirds to your garden:

Red Columbine
Scarlet Sage
Trumpet Vine
Nicotiana
Lobelia
Veronica
Delphinium
Four O’clock
Impatiens
Bee Balm
Lilies
Fuschia

A garden with a combination of these flowers (and a nectar feeder!) can assist in attracting these unique birds to your garden.

All of these annuals and perennials are available at Rutgers Nursery and Landscape in their respective seasons. Our staff is always willing to assist in all of your gardening projects.

Happy Hummingbird Watching!

Dealing with Wet Soil

Posted on June 13, 2013 by RutgersLN

With all the rain we’ve had lately, you may be wondering how this excess water affects our plants! For areas that drain well, our rainy periods shouldn’t have a negative effect. However, heavy clay soils that are not amended with organic material (like compost) can prevent easy drainage. Why is water a problem? Excess water in the soil forces out air. When there is less air available, the oxygen is rapidly used and becomes inadequate for good root growth. Adding compost is a great way to loosen clay soil and improve drainage. Adding a trench to divert water away from plants works well too.

How to Care for Your Roses so They Bloom all Summer

Posted on June 7, 2013 by RutgersLN

Water Adequately

Diligently check the moisture level in the rose beds at least twice a week in dry summer weather. When watering, avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus.

Feed Regularly

Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow 3/4 to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem.
In May and June, add in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.

Mulch Generously

Mulch, as an element to rose care, helps minimize weeds, keeps the soil moist and loose, and adds essential nutrients.

Prevent Pests and Disease

Removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Local pests to watch out for are:
Stem Borers
Japanese Beetles
Aphids
Spider Mites
Black Spot/Powdery Mildew

Prune to Promote Blooms

Pruning your roses keeps them blooming repeatedly all summer long. Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.

Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.

These simple techniques for rose care will assure you a season of abundant flowers and healthy plants.

Tips for Planting Perennials

Posted on May 31, 2013 by RutgersLN

One of the great joys of the garden is lush, flowering perennials. New gardeners may find the thought of planning and planting a perennial bed intimidating, but it’s really easy! Long-term success with perennials is a direct result of good planning and some simple prep work. Here’s what you need to know:

Site preparation

First, pick the spot for your perennial bed. If necessary, use a garden hose or string and stakes to visualize the bed lines. If the bed is already cut, so much the better. Either way, be sure the space is the size and shape you want. Remove any vegetation in the bed. Lift sod and/or remove any weeds.

Healthy soil promotes healthy plants, which are more insect and disease resistant. We can’t over-emphasize the long-term value of adding organics, like peat moss, compost and manure to the garden. One part peat moss to two parts existing soil, or one part each garden soil, peat moss, and compost (or dehydrated manure) will give you great soil in which to start your new garden. Also add a handful per plant of an organic, balanced fertilizer like Plant-Tone. Mix or till these materials into the soil prior to planting. Grade the soil so the final desired contour is achieved.

Planting

The hole you dig for each perennial should be twice the size of the container the perennial comes in. The wider the hole, the better, since plant’s roots grow out more easily into loosened, enriched soil. Remove the perennial from the container and lightly loosen the roots so the plant will grow out of its tightly wrapped ball and settle in more quickly.

Refill the hole with enriched soil, setting plants into holes at their original growing level. Never bury a plant deeper than its crown (where the roots and the stems meet) Buried crowns mean suffocated plants! Plant 2 inches higher than ground level if you are going to mulch. Backfill the rest of the hole with enriched soil. Tamp down the soil to remove any large air pockets. Water well, with a soft trickle of water that lasts long enough to saturate the root ball deep into the soil. Perennials prefer one inch of water a week, in one application. However, different soil types may need slightly more or less water. Use your fingers to poke into the soil to test the dampness of the soil. In order to conserve precious moisture and to keep weeds down, mulch your perennials with a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch (not stones!)

A well-planned, well-planted perennial garden will be a joy for many years. Let us help you make the choices that will give you the garden you’ve dreamed of.

Tag Archives: Gardening tips